Engine Starting System Problems

The start is an electric motor that runs the engine or "lifts" to run it. It consists of a strong DC motor and a starting coil in the engine. Start drive is powered by car battery. To start the engine, the startup engine requires a very high electrical current, which means the battery must have sufficient power.

How the Engine Starting System works:

When you turn on the ignition switch to START mode, the battery voltage passes through the control circuit at the start and activates the initial solenoid, which in turn activates the start motor. At the same time, the initial solenoid drives the startup tools forward to connect them to the flywheel (cover plate in automatic transmission). The spindle is connected to the crankshaft motor. The engine starts the engine, reverses the crankshaft of the engine, allowing engine operation.

For safety reasons, the start motor can only be operated when an automatic transmission is in stand or neutral mode; or if the vehicle has a manual transmission, when the clutch pedal is pressed. To achieve this, there is a neutral security key installed in the automatic transmission mechanism or the clutch pedal in the case of the manual transmission.

Engine Starting System problems

If you try to run the car, you hear the crank start as usual, but the car does not start, it is likely to problem

The battery is very common to fail. Sometimes the battery drains an electrical plug that is left or has a defect that causes the pull of the parasitic current. Sometimes, the old battery may die one day, without warning. In both cases, if the battery is low in charging, it will not have enough power for the engine to start the engine.

If the battery is low on charging, when you try to start the engine, you'll probably hear one click or a repetitive click, or the novice may turn slowly and stop.



Poor connection at the ends of the cables can result in not starting or operating too slowly. The battery terminals or ground cable connection often erode, causing problems with start-up (see image).



Sometimes the control unit is eroded at the beginning of the operation (in the picture) or the control wire at the beginning of the work is either disconnected or disconnected from the station, causing the engine to not start. For example, the start-up control station was corroded as a reason for not starting, and there was no crank case in the Mazda 3. We only noticed this after disconnecting the control wire connector. Cleaning the terminal and replacing the connector solves the problem.



Sometimes, the startup tool does not fit for some reason with the engine flywheel. This may cause a high sound grinding or metal screaming when trying to start the vehicle. In this case, the flywheel gear should be checked to ensure that there are no damaged teeth.



Ignition key also fails frequently. The contact points inside the ignition switch fade, so when the ignition switch is turned on, no electrical current passes through the start control circuit to activate the initial solenoid. If pressing the ignition key helps start the car, the ignition key is likely to be defective.

The neutral security key can also fail or an error occurs. For example, if a car starts in "Neutral" but does not start in "Park," you must first check the neutral security key.

What is inside the start engine:

The starting drive contains several (usually 4) electric rolls (field files) attached to an engine motor from the inside. Reinforcing steel (rotor part) is connected through carbon brushes in series with coil area. On the front end of the rebar, there is a small pin that is fixed on the rebar through a clasped clutch. This part is known as Bendix.

Many startup problems occur due to worn-out carbon brushes or engine bearings. Points of contact within the beginning